Challenges for Film Production in Nepal

Film production is a creative and challenging process. Filming through days and nights, under the sun and the rain is no easy job. Pulling the raw footages together and editing them to depict a compelling story is one of the most difficult tasks. There is a much more challenge for film production in Nepal with difficulty in getting permit, lack of resources to play from.

As a film producer, we have always done our best to win over the challenges that present themselves while filming. Whether it’s the weather betraying us, or the difficult locations that have no access to electricity, we have everything covered.

To give you just a tiny glimpse of the challenges that we face while we’re out in the field everyday, we have compiled the following list.

 

Pre-production

Before the actual production, or filming, starts, we have to prepare a number of things before-hand.

Acquiring permits

Permits for filming in Nepal can be differentiated into various types. ‘Nepal Filming Permit’ is mandatory while different other permits are required if you wish to film in national parks or public places.

These permits can be acquired through Home Ministry, Defense Ministry, Ministry of Communication and Information Technology and Ministry of Tourism in Nepal. So far, Kathmandu Films has made sure to get these permits in time and without problems. As with the political instability of Nepal, it can sometimes be hard to get the permit at all, or very late. WE have always managed to get the permits as per our schedules.

Briefing the crew

At Kathmandu Films, we always manage to pull together the best crew with respect to the timing and schedule. We believe that a happy crew makes the production perfect. We aim to take care of their needs throughout the production phase.

Managing equipment

Only filmmakers know the struggle of locating a misplaced equipment during filming. To avoid just that, we keep track of all our filming gears. We know what equipment we have and which ones of those we actually need for the project. This accounts for an efficient use of the equipement. We also have regular status updates to ensure that our equipment are in the best working conditions.

Transportation

Filming in Nepal, especially outside Kathmandu depends heavily on the availability of transportation. Since the remote areas haven’t been explored for filming yet, it is difficult to take appropriate measures for a hassle free transportation of equipment as well as the crew. Our major focus is to have a well experienced driver who know what kind of vehicle is appropriate for the given route to our destination. For locations like Lo-Manthang, we have a local and well-experienced driver who has knowledge about the area.

Scheduling

The schedule and itinerary is made according to the needs and demands of the client. We also keep our crew’s availability and needs in mind when we plan the project. Usually, the number of days required for the production depends on the location and the content. If it is a new location, research/recce is required to be done for days.

Recce/Research

This has to be one of the most challenging situation that we face in every shoot. If required, our team spends days for research about the location discussed for the shoot. Many factors are taken into consideration, such as the local weather, management of crowd and garbage for the shoot.

 

Production

The production phase requires the right setup of equipment and actual filming procedures. It includes everywhere from the director yelling “Lights, Camera, Action” to “Pack up!”

Equipment setup

For an indoor shoot, it isn’t a lot of hassle. We get the equipment to the location, set it up in a few minutes and can begin the shoot.

But, for outdoor shoot, it can get quite difficult. The main challenge is to manage the sound for the shoot and to keep the background noise as low as possible. While we can’t just go around and throw the vehicles off the road like superman can, or tape people’s’ mouths shut with a duct tape, we still have to manage crowd and the noise in a proper adult-like way.

In cases where we are filming on a public road, it is essential to talk to the local traffic police regarding the shoot and how to continue the shoot without disrupting the entire traffic system. Also, here in Nepal, we can often find garbages dumped on the road. While the government has been trying to implement laws.

 

Post-production

Footages to infrastructure dept

After the production phase, it is required to provide footages to the infrastructure department. This is mandatory as they have to regulate that our work does not go against any values or does any harm to the country and its people.

Editing

This is where the magic happens! Not literally.

The footages are pulled together to form a meaningful film along with special video and sound effects. The editor is responsible for the color grading and correction and to ensure that the sound is in sync with the video.

Marketing

When we make films for clients, we believe that it is our responsibility to make it known among the right viewers. A good marketing strategy according to the content of the film ensures higher viewer rates.

Challenges are always going to be there, but we are always prepared. Years of filming and overcoming the challenges have taught us a lot, but the same experience or knowledge cannot be applied in other shoot, as the scenarios are completely different.

Did we miss out any challenges that you have to go through in your journey of filming in Nepal? We would be very pleased to hear your words!

 

 

Post Earthquake Filming in Nepal

The filming scenario in Nepal changed after the major earthquake of 2015.  While the local film production carried on shortly after, the international crew was seen very less relative to before the earthquake. Sure there were national and international filmmakers filming documentaries about the violent earthquake and its damages to people and properties but Filming in Nepal took a major hit after the Earthquake.

However, there were subtle changes in the filming process and the legal processing for permits and other required documents. Some areas were declared as unsafe and were out of bounds.

Skip to two years later and here we are with our filming adventures through these years to 2018. We are past the 2015 earthquake and can *almost* claim that the filming industry in Nepal is thriving on an international level again. Hundreds and thousands of international filming crews visit Nepal every year to portray its breath-taking locations and typical Nepali aspects in their films.

 

Drones prohibition

Filming with drones without a legal permission has been deemed as an illegal practice in Nepal after the 2015 earthquake. The drone permit costs more than the drone itself. At the same time, it is incredibly difficult to obtain any drone permission.

 

Foreign coverage in impacted areas

Most filmmakers, although there weren’t many, who dropped in during the time of earthquake were there to cover the damages in the impacted areas. They were there to capture the stories of the lives of Nepali people and how it changed after the devastating earthquake. Filming in Nepal was greatly affected, yet somehow documentaries were made by channels as prestigious as National Geographic.

 

Assumed to be unsafe

The number of international filmmakers coming to Nepal reduced greatly after the earthquake. While people were back at their lives, doing the normal things, it was still hard for people outside Nepal to believe that it is safe now. However, things have changed in the last 3 years. Hundreds of filmmakers come to Nepal every year to film their projects.

 

Traveling is difficult

Many roads have been obstructed due to the landslides because of earthquake. Some roads have been cracked from deep down while some had large dirt and stones covering all the way. This created difficulty in driving and in some cases, blocked the route to get to the destination.

 

Damaged locations

Nepal is a mix of rich culture and natural beauty. The filming locations in Nepal are many, including but not limited to Kathmandu Valley, Pokhara, Mustang, Lumbini and Everest. Some of such locations may have been damaged by the earthquake. However, they are fully safe to film in and retain their originality and beauty.

The earthquake of 2015 was sad and brought changes to our lives and in the filming scenario in Nepal. However, Kathmandu Films had been actively working and filming to bring the stories into light even during the earthquakes. The earthquake shook our country, but we stood strong through it. We filmed for over 90 channels for the coverage of the earthquake in Nepal at the time.

Despite the sadness of the calamity, we had more to add to our knowledge and experience. The hard times make us stronger and today we are more than prepared to help you with your project.

 

 

Filming Locations in Nepal

Are you planning to film in Nepal?

Nepal might be a small, landlocked country but it offers visually pleasing locations for you to shoot your beautiful projects. The lush green forests, silver mountains, ancient monuments, historically and culturally rich heritage, and diverse yet picturesque landscapes make for an exciting location that’s bound to leave your viewers in awe.  

Every year, a number of film crew visit Nepal in search of best locations to shoot their documentaries, commercials, movies and what not. Well, here’s a guide to give you a better insight of the locations that are feasible to shoot in Nepal.

 

Filming inside Kathmandu valley:

Kathmandu valley comprises of three major cities: Kathmandu, Bhaktapur, and Lalitpur. All these three cities hold to themselves the richness of cultural diversity and heritage that’s beautiful to look at, as is its long history. Well, there are lots of locations within the valley, and we are going to discuss a few of them.

Swayambhunath Temple

Renowned as the Monkey Temple, Swayambhunath Temple rests atop a hill, glancing over the Kathmandu valley. The views are stunning and it makes for a lovely place to just sit and admire as the sun goes down. The local people visit the temple every morning/evening, rotating the prayer wheels as they go around it.

Durbar Squares

There are three Durbar Squares within the valley: Basantapur Durbar Square, Bhaktapur Durbar Square, and Patan Durbar Square. Each as beautiful as the other, but with their own origin and history. These squares underwent some terrible damages during the 2015 earthquake but most of them have been rebuilt while some are still standing with bamboo or scaffolding support.

Pashupatinath Temple

With Bagmati river on the side, Pashupati temple is one of the most important pilgrimage sites for Hindu people. Thousands of people come to visit this temple every year, most to worship while some to film. The main entrance to temple isn’t open to non-Hindu people, however, the vicinity of this temple is open to all.

Streets of Thamel

Thamel is one of the most-hyped and touristy spots in Kathmandu.  You can say, it’s the most ‘happening’ place in all of Kathmandu. With its busy streets covered with colorful prayer flags, beautiful “Om Mani Padme Hum” chants coming from the nearby CD shops, there’s just a whole different vibe to Thamel that’s to get from anywhere else.

 

Filming outside Kathmandu valley

The Kathmandu valley holds its charm, we know. And at first thought of filming outside the valley may shake you up: where else would you get to experience such natural and cultural beauty? Well, the answer is everywhere, in Nepal. Once you step outside the valley, you have even better chances of catching those sunlit golden snowy peaks early morning. You have so much to explore and find an ideal location for you to cover your film.

Pokhara

There’s plenty to enjoy in Pokhara: the serene lake reflecting the beautiful Himalayas, adrenaline packed adventure sports or visiting the cultural villages. The ambience of peace and magic this place gives off is truly felt by the people who visit it — the experience is unreal.

Mustang

Mustang was once an old, independent Tibetan kingdom, still retaining its mystical reputation to this day. While Mustang isn’t really on the greener side with lush forests, it’s more of a high altitude desert of rich red and ocher, with deep gorges set against an infinite blue sky.

Everest

Well, Everest is the most popular mountain in the world — afterall, it stands tall at 8847m making it the highest peak in the world. As exciting as filming in Everest sounds, it comes with its risk factors. The average temperature in winter is around -36° and maybe drop down to -60°, while it’s around -19° in summer.

Kathmandu Films makes sure that all your needs are met and permits are managed for a wonderful filming experience in your desired locations.

 

 

Permits in Nepal

Filmmakers wishing to be able to film in Nepal need to have the filming permits first. And where you do get that, you ask?

Government of Nepal – the Ministry of Information and Communications provides foreign film shooting permits in Nepal, of which all the papers and documents will be processed and easily available to you by Kathmandu Films. We help your crew to not just obtain film permits, but also give you advice on tax payment and customs clearance.

Before you request for a permit, it is to be made sure that your film doesn’t demean Nepal or Nepali people’s values or cultures in any way.

The Ministry of Information and Communication grants the permit for the shooting of any kind of TV commercials, documentaries, music videos, feature films, and other films that do not spread unfavorable messages about Nepal.

The filming permit comes with a government-assigned Liaison Officer, who’ll remain with the filming team for the entirety of the shoot and will monitor all filming activities. He ensures that the filming is not impacting the environment, the society or the people in any negative way. The liaison officer holds full authority to suspend all filming activities if s/he thinks it is unlawful or is impacting the country and its image in any negative way.

 

Documents required for Filming Permits

The documents needed to process the permit are:
  • A Letter made by the assigned local coordinator informing the Audio-Visual Section, Ministry of Information and Communications of the purpose of applying for the shooting permit.
  • An assignment letter made by the foreign filmmaker showing that they have already chosen and hired a local coordinator.
  • An application form.
  • Supporting documents needed for permit consideration:
  • Storyboard for TV commercials
  • Treatment for documentaries
  • Theme (concept) and Lyrics for music videos
    • Details of content and objectives of the programme
    • Presentation for TV programmes.
  • A schedule of filming in Nepal specifying exact dates and locations (for all types of productions).
  • Name-list, passport numbers, positions and arrival dates of all foreign film crews.
  • Equipment list with values for custom clearance.

 

Different types of filming permits in Nepal

Different filming locations require different types of filming permits. While the Nepal Filming Permit is mandatory, other permits are supposed to be requested depending upon the location of the shoot.

  • Nepal Filming Permit (mandatory)

This is a one-time permit, which is mandatory regardless of where your location is in the country. This permit is issued by the Ministry of Information and Communications.

  • National Parks Filming Permit

Nepal has a total of 20 national parks and conservation area that require a separate filming permit and some amount to be paid as filming charge in the location.

  • Heritage Areas Filming Permit

Filming in cultural heritage areas like temples, monuments and other figures need to be endorsed by the municipality or the district office. However, the permit can be suspended anytime should the officers feel the film is rendering harm to the cultural heritage.

  • Public Area Filming Permit

Public area filming permit is endorsed by the local police authority as long as no harm is being done to the public.

  • Private Property Filming Permit

Filming in privately owned properties like hotels and restaurants, cafes, recreational halls, movie halls etc needs to have the permit from the owner himself.

Equipment in Nepal

When it comes to filming in Nepal, there are many factors that come into play for a successful filming. Planning is seemingly easy,  but the production is a difficult job. And with the extreme and complex topology in Nepal, it can make people’s knees shake!

Most filmmakers get stumped where to get all the equipment to film their project in Nepal. With over 12 years in the filming industry, Kathmandu Films is your one-stop solution for all your filming needs in Nepal. We provide high-quality equipment including cameras, lenses, tripods, jibs, dollies, gimbals, sound equipment, lighting, drones and everything else that you may need for your project.

 

Filming equipment that we provide:

  • RED CAMERA PACKAGE
  • WEAPON BRAIN w/HELIUM 8K S35 Sensor and items/accessories below (or equivalent)
    • DSMC2 Standard OLPF
    • DSMC S35 PL Mount 2.0 (Magnesium)
    • DSMC S35 Canon Mount (Aluminum)
    • DSMC2 Sidekick (Woven Carbon Fiber)
    • DSMC2 Side Handle
    • DSMC2 Top Handle
    • DSMC Outrigger Handle
    • DSMC2 Base Expander
    • DSMC2 REDVOLT XL Module
    • RED Pro Touch 7.0” LCS Display
    • Wooden Camera 7.0” Display Shade
    • Wooden Camera wifi sideplate
    • Wooden Camera Easy Riser Plate
    • Wooden Camera Easy Top
    • Wooden Camera LWS Rods Bracket (15mm)
    • Wooden Camera A-Box for wireless audio tap
    • (5) RED 480GB Mini Mags
    • (2) RED STATIONs Mini-Mag (USB 3.1)
    • (2) USB Cable
    • 8 to 12 REDVOLT XL batteries
    • 2 REDVOLT Quad Chargers w/AC Cable
    • DSMC AC Power Adapter w/AC Cable
    • RED Sidewinder
  • Arri Clip on LMB Matte Box or equivalent
  • Preston or similar Remote Follow Focus setup
  • Ikan Thumb Wheel Follow Focus
  • Lens package
  • Arri Ultra Primes full set
  • Canon L Series prime set, and zoom lenses 70-200mm and up to 1000mm
  • Filtration
  • ND Filter set
  • Grad ND FIlter set
  • Phantom Flex4k Slow motion camera (we might need this for several shoot days)
  • Lens mount for our lenses above (Canon and/or PL)
  • Wireless video monitoring system
  • Teradek Bolt or better with multiple receivers

 

Didn’t see what you need in the list? Tell us and we can manage it for you! Contact us at +977 980 101 2432 or email us at workofchandan@gmail.com for more information.

 

 

Filming the Sky Burials Documentary

We were heading towards Upper Mustang for filming the sky burial documentary. Needless to say, we faced a lot of challenges en route, mainly due to road maintenance and unpredictable wind. Funny, some of my friends lost their favorite socks and some other clothes on the first day of arrival at Jomsom and Kagbeni while letting it sun-dry after washing.

Even with direct sunlight during the daytime, there was freezing temperature at night. Nevertheless, the people at the hotel we were staying at welcomed us and our clients with local wine and food.

We faced some difficulties to obtain the filming permits as the location we had chosen was also the border area of Nepal and China. However, we are always prepared for the worst, with backup plans for any challenges that might arise. So, getting the permit was like a piece of cake for Kathmandu Films.

 

Filming better: what inspires us

Our clients were very friendly, which made us proud as well as happy to work harder for them every day. We strive to perform our tasks the best way we can in each day that we work. We open up to them with our creative and new ideas that help us form a good bond with our clients, and it helps us become more positive towards the work that we do.

Further, after the shoot, we set up a few interviews with the local people but they were hesitant to share anything as sky burials was a lost tradition, as well as a very sensitive topic to many.

 

Making our way through the problems

At our selected location, there was neither internet nor electricity. We did have a backup generator but it had troubles starting up due to high altitude and freezing cold. We had to wake up in the middle of the night every day to start our jeep and generator to keep it warm and workable enough to run. After a total of 21 days of the shooting schedule, we finally managed to complete the shoot 5 days earlier, because of good coordination within the team and our hard work.

 

Final thoughts

As a Line Producer and Fixer, I am filled with immense pride and love as I say that Kathmandu Films team is a really lovely team to work with. The sky burials shoot was one of the most memorable shoots for us because of all that we learned and all the challenges that we met. Through this shoot, we along with our clients got to learn about the lost tradition in Nepal, sky burials.

 

 

Google: Polarsteps (Gramafilms)

Algor Lieman is from Gramafilms, a London based creative agency, and production company. When we first signed the contract for this projects, our excitement was leaping out of bounds. We knew this was going to be one of the best filming experience for the whole team. And, we weren’t wrong.

Here’s a walkthrough of our journey of filming for this project from the start!

Sudden change in filming location

Our initial plans were to shoot the film in Kathmandu. But, the plans changed and the next morning, we were all on a bus to Pokhara. We packed everything and filmed along the way. We stopped only for lunch throughout the day. By the evening, we had reached Pokhara and checked in. Just then, it started raining.

 

Filming in the rain

It was still raining the next day yet we decided to film. We were filming on the road on our way to Sarangkot. The back-door of the Hiace was left open all day. Our cameraman, Tiago, was wearing a special harness to film through the open door of a moving van. The roads were narrow and difficult. After a busy day of shoot, we headed back to the hotel for a very late lunch. We then headed to Recce and decided to call it a day.

 

Getting to the White Peace Pagoda

Next day, we headed towards Recce near White Peace Pagoda. We stumbled upon some obstacles along the way. One of the shorter ways to our destination was under construction, so we had to take the longer way. We planned to shoot that day but the weather wasn’t in our favor. On the Recce, we faced roads of dirt and mud, but somehow we managed through it. By the evening, we had finalized the locations to shoot for the next day. We then headed back to the hotel at Sarangkot.

 

The actual filming day!

Finally, the filming day was here!

We woke up early and had our breakfast. It was around 5 in the morning when we left for the shoot. The road to our location was ruined by the rain last night, so, we had to leave our bigger car behind. We took the four-wheel vehicles with us and filmed through most of the way to our location.

We had a warm welcome at Pumdi Bhumdi. The filming went pretty smooth for the day. On our way back, we had a different location planned. We were filming in the middle of the jungle when it started raining again, yet we managed and finished the shoot. We still had to face some obstacles as we were going downhill. Eventually, we reached the hotel late in the evening and called it a day.

 

Filming in the beauty of Damauli

Our next location was much farther from Pokhara. We left early in the morning and reached the riverside of Damauli. And trust us when we say this  — everything about Damauli is beautiful. The rivers running. The beautiful highway. The cool wind. Just about, everything?

Well, we filmed all day by the river and returned to the hotel in the evening. On our way back, one of the vehicles broke down but we had contingencies planned for that. Finally, the whole team united back at the hotel by 10 in the evening. We were all enjoying everything, yet a little sad that it was coming to an end soon. Tomorrow was the last day of the shoot.

 

Cruel weather vs Our persistency

The weather had been cruel to us ever since we started our journey. Yet again, we couldn’t get a proper shot of the Himalayas due to the adverse weather conditions. It was one of the main reasons to shoot in Pokhara: to capture the scenic beauty of the Himalayas.  Nevertheless, we woke up early at 3 in the morning hoping that the haze would clear out. We got to the top of Sarangkot hill by 4:30. We waited for a couple of hours to get the shots we wanted. After some time, we decided to pack and finish it with whatever we had. So yeah, the shooting was finally over!

Headed back to Kathmandu then, and reached by the evening with lots of amazing experiences from the shoot.

 

 

Filming for Lion’s Club – Pieter Miller from Image Base

At Kathmandu Films, we strive to provide the best filming services in Nepal and that sets us apart. We thrive in challenges and make a way through to get the best results. Whether it is days-long shoot or managing filming permits or talking to local people, we do it all and that is why our clients entrust us for their projects.

As of such a case, we had a chance to prove ourselves on an international platform again. Pieter Miller is a producer from Image base, Chicago based video, and event agency. He traveled to Nepal to film some of the projects the local Lions Club in Nepal were participating in. This was for Lions Club International, and a thrilling experience stocked for us in the future. We made plans and the shoot lasted for 8 days in total.  

The onset of filming journey: day 1

Inspection and Introduction

All the equipment had to be checked thoroughly by the Cinematographer himself and one of the specialists from the production company. After inspection, some more equipment was required. We had it delivered in time on the same day.

 

Understanding our location: day 2

  1. Koirala Lions Center for Ophthalmic Studies

It was May 6th, Sunday. The journey started from our hotel to BP KOIRALA LIONS CENTRE FOR OPHTHALMIC STUDIES. All the equipment were already loaded on the vehicle. We started early in the morning at 7. We reached the hospital and was welcomed by the Director Mr. Anand Sharma. He briefed the crew about the institute and after that, we went to scout the premises.

While half of the crew were out scouting, the other half were setting up the equipment for the interview. So when the scouting was over, we started the interview. There were 5 interviews in total. After the interview, we started shooting V-rolls. And that was it for the day.

 

Interviewing students and doctors: day 3

  1. Koirala Lions Center for Ophthalmic Studies Rural Clinic

The next morning, we headed to the Insitute for the Rural clinic team. We traveled with the team to Nepal-Korea Friendship Hospital, Bhaktapur. There, we got some interviews with the patient and the doctors who were running the rural clinic. After the shoot at the hospital, we headed for the town of Bhaktapur where Lions club had established an eye care center. There were children coming for inspection and diagnosis there. We shot some V-rolls and had interviews with students and the Doctor who was conducting the treatment.

 

Unfortunate weather and Gurkhali spirit: day 4

Travel to Gorkha and Interview with Engineers (2 Interviews)

Our day started early in the morning at 7, with all the luggage and equipment packed and ready to go. We made our way towards Gorkha, famous as the home to the brave troops of Gurkhali soldiers. However, we stopped to get some lunch in the daytime. As soon as we reached Gorkha, we checked into a hotel a. Since it wasn’t dark already, we decided to look around for a location to shoot the interviews.

Later, we found out that the hotel we had checked in earlier was owned by one of the founding members of Lions Club in Nepal and in Gorkha.  We were supposed to travel for 2 more hours off road for the next day. But unfortunately, we decided not to travel because of the poor condition of the roads and the weather. Luckily, we found a better option to film: the school.

 

A sweet gesture at work: day 5

School shooting interviews and V-rolls

The next day we got up at 7 in the morning and headed towards the school for filming. The students would not be there till 9 so we had a little time. We prepared the equipment and set it in place. We started interviewing the Lions from Gorkha. After the interviews, the first school bell rang. We started filming the classes. It was the usual: the students were studying what the teacher was teaching. After the V-roll we started interviewing students. When we were wrapping up, the school prepared a nice farewell program for us. The whole school was singing songs for us while the principal was handing us a small token of love. We spent the night in Gorkha.

 

Traveling back to Kathmandu: day 6

Travel Back to Kathmandu

Next day, we traveled back to Kathmandu. The weather was nice. The wind was cool. We took a much-needed rest on our way back.

 

An inspirational story: day 7

Mobility Cart Story

We are filming in the streets of Teku for the day. It was for a Mobility Cart story. Specifically, Chatra Bahadur Gurung’s story.

He received the mobility cart from Lion Ramchandra Dahal, who is an amazing guy in himself. Gurung narrates his story of how he received the three-wheeled cart that changed his life, which was very inspiring. After the shoot, we said goodbye to Chatra Bahadur Gurung and head back to the hotel.

 

Done with filming for the project: day 8

Travel to Dhulikhel Lions Club Global Action Team Meeting

We started our day early in the morning, heading towards Dhulikhel where the Global action team meeting was being held. We filmed the whole event and interviewed some of the members of the Global Action team. After the shoot, we headed straight to the airport to drop our clients off.

The whole experience was mesmerizing. Working with international clients always teaches us something we never knew before. It was amazing to work with such a talented crew and to also prove our worth. Even our clients agree on that.

Recce to Mustang

Mustang was once an isolated and independent Tibetan kingdom. Today, it is an exotic place in Nepal that still retains a mystical reputation. In an unabated search for villages that still performed the sky burial funerals, we discovered a lot throughout the journey.

Sky burial is an ancient Tibetan funeral which has an unusual yet unique process. The corpse is first dismembered. Then it is exposed on an elevated location, as an offering for the sacred vultures.

Well, a sky burial is far from any other conventional kind of ‘burial’. Only a few cultures observe it — for different reasons and in different ways.

Sky burial can come off as shocking to a lot of people; after all, it’s dead bodies being chopped and offered to vultures. But the philosophy and values behind this ritual are simply beautiful and virtuous. “If your spirit has left your body and it could nourish another creature, then it should.”

 

The onset of our journey

It started with a short flight to Pokhara, from where we drove for more than 10 hours to Jomsom.
Jomsom is one of the biggest cities in Mustang district, well known for its relentless winds. Connecting Lower Mustang with the Upper, it’s also one of the most popular trekking destinations in Nepal. It’s mostly visited by the majority of people going to the temple of Muktinath as well.

The village close to Jomsom is Kagbeni, which sits at the bottom of Muktinath valley. Kagbeni is famous for people, from all around the country, visiting to perform post-funeral rituals. Yet, this village still has not seen any sky burial for more than a decade.

We then walked for about 45 minutes, crossing the Kali Gandaki river to come upon a small village named Tiri. There we met Chhamba Dukta in Gonpa Gong. He is a Lama who performs sky burials, originally in his village in Dolpa, and in Mustang. He told us that it has been around 10 years since any sky burial. The villagers have settled for easier burning funerals, rather than difficult sky burials.

On his reference, our team headed towards a village, Dhamkar, in Upper Mustang. ‘Dham’ stands for hills and ‘Kar’ stands for red, meaning ‘Red Hills’ in the local language. The lower parts of Mustang have almost shunned the rituals of sky burial. This is mainly because of development of roadways and hiking trails.

 

 

The basis for sky burial

The very first thing to do after a person dies is to determine the method for their funeral. Usually, a high priest looks into the time of birth and death to find out what sign the person is. He determines one of the five signs: earth, water, air, sky, and fire through basic astrology. After ascertaining the sign, s/he is either buried, chopped and fed to the fishes, chopped and fed to the vultures or burned respectively.

 

What exactly happens in a sky burial?

After a Lama determines the process, the body is first tied up and he begins to recite the necessary prayers. Family members join along, beating double-sided drums and chanting prayers. They offer their condolences to the deceased by offering Khada, a religious cloth for farewell. Then, the priest goes around the body thrice, and it’s carried to a place that is specially allocated for the funeral.

Once there, the body breakers chop the body into precise pieces. The tip of the fingers containing the nails are considered to be poisonous to the vultures, so they are burnt along with the head. Once the offerings are ready, the Lama plays Damaru, an instrument crafted from the human knee. This is an invitation for the vultures to glide down and devour the offerings.
It is believed to be a bad omen if the vultures do not feed on the body. It implies that the body is too dirty to eat (ie, the person has sinned), or the rituals weren’t performed correctly. In such a case, the body has to be burnt, which is considered inauspicious, as it had to follow two traditions.

 

Concepts behind sky burial

As described in the traditional Tibetan mythologies, sky burials signify a true act of compassion and charity. The body, which never again serves any purpose, is offered to the vultures to feed on as an alms for the sacred birds.

So, the idea at work here is that if a body that ideally serves no use can sustain some other creature, then why not? After all, it’s important to not waste any opportunity to help other living beings.

One of the other interesting concepts of sky burial revolves around the choice of the animal: the vultures.
A traditional Tibetan mythology indicates that once the vultures are old, they do not fall back to the earth when their time has come. Rather, they keep flying higher until they just disappear into the sky.

And that’s where the name comes from: Sky Burials!

This unique tradition of sky burials is slowly getting extinct, with lesser to none sky burials performed in a year throughout the country. Well, in Kathmandu Films, we believe that it is our duty to explore and document such an intimidating ritual. And to spread beautiful accounts as such to keep the originality and uniqueness of Nepal alive.

 

 

Travel Essentials: Nepal (Part II)

Crime

Nepal is one of the world’s more crime-free countries, but it would be unwise not to take a few simple precautions.

The main concern is petty theft. Store valuables in your hotel safe, close windows or grilles at night in cities to deter “fishing”, and use a money belt or pouch around your neck. Some public bus routes have reputations for baggage theft. Pickpockets (often street children) operate in crowded urban areas, especially during festivals; be vigilant.

If you’re robbed, report it as soon as possible to the police headquarters of the district in which the robbery occurred. Policemen are apt to be friendly if not of much help. For insurance purposes, go to the Interpol Section of the police headquarters in Durbar Square, Kathmandu, to fill in a report; you’ll need a copy of it to claim from your insurer once back home. Bring a photocopy of your passport and your Nepali visa, together with two passport photos.

Violent crime is rare. An occasional concern is a certain amount of hooliganism or sexual aggression in the Kathmandu tourist bars, and late-night muggings do sometimes occur. In addition, there have been a couple of well-publicized armed robberies and sex murders in the national parks on the edge of the Kathmandu Valley. A few Western women have been raped, but most problems come about within relationships with Nepali men – trekking or rafting guides, for instance – not due to an attack by strangers. The countryside, generally, is very safe, though there is a small risk of attack by bandits on remote trekking trails. In the Terai region, there are a number of armed Madhesi groups, but tourists are not targets and you are unlikely to be affected much beyond the odd delayed bus, roadblock or bandh.

There are several ways to get on the wrong side of the law. Smuggling is the usual cause of serious trouble – if you get caught with commercial quantities of either drugs or gold you’ll be looking at a more or less automatic five to twenty years in prison.

In Nepal, where government servants are poorly paid, a little bakshish sometimes greases the wheels. Nepali police don’t bust tourists simply in order to get bribes, but if you’re accused of something it might not hurt to make an offer, in an extremely careful, euphemistic and undeniable way. This shouldn’t be necessary if you’re the victim of a crime, although you may feel like offering a “reward”.

The worst trouble you’re likely to run into is one of Nepal’s all-too-common civil disturbances. Political parties, student organizations and anyone else with a gripe may call a chakka jam (traffic halt) or bandh (general strike). In either case, most shops pull down their shutters as well, and vehicles stay off the roads to avoid having their windows smashed. Demonstrations sometimes involve rock-throwing, tear gas and laathis (Asian-style police batons), but you’d have to go out of your way to get mixed up in this.

 

Drugs

Drugs are illegal in Nepal, but it is impossible to walk through Thamel or any of the other tourist hotspots without being approached by a dealer offering hash. It would be incredibly stupid to go through customs with illegal drugs, but discreet possession inside the country carries relatively little risk. While the drug dealers are often shady characters, they are not generally informants.

 

Electricity

Power comes at 220 volts/50 cycles per second when you can get it: lengthy power cuts (“load shedding”) are a daily occurrence. Smarter hotels and restaurants have backup generators. Tourist guest houses usually offer sockets that accept almost any kind of pin, but the European standard two-pin is the most common.

 

Emergencies

Dial 100 for the police. Hospitals and other organizations have their own telephone numbers for an ambulance, but get a Nepali-speaker to do the talking. Registering with your embassy can speed things up in the event of an emergency.

 

Entry regulations

All foreign nationals except Indians need a visa to enter Nepal. These are free (for 30 days) for nationals of other South Asian Area Regional Cooperation (SAARC) countries: Pakistan, Bhutan, and Bangladesh. All other nationals have to pay for them. Tourist visas are issued on arrival at Kathmandu airport and official overland entry points. At the former, queues can be long, so you may prefer to get one in advance from a Nepali embassy or consulate in your own country. Otherwise, have a passport-size photo at the ready. At the airport, you can pay the visa fee in US dollars, euros, pound sterling or other major foreign currencies. At overland entry points, officials tend to demand US dollars or Nepali rupees.

The fee structure at the time of writing was $25 for 15 days, $40 for 30 days and $100 for 90 days; all are multiple-entry visas. Fees may change without warning, however, so double-check at immi.gov.np before setting out. Tourist visas can be extended up to a maximum of 150 days in a calendar year: an extension of 15 days or less costs $30; for more than 15 days, it costs an extra $2 per day. Extensions are granted only at the Kathmandu or Pokhara Department of Immigration offices. Submit your passport and one passport-size photo with your application. A transit visa, valid for 24 hours and non-extendable, costs $5.

Don’t overstay more than a couple of days, and don’t tamper with your visa – tourists have been fined and even jailed for these seemingly minor infractions.

It is no longer necessary to have a trekking permit to visit the most popular trekking regions, but you will need the TIMS card, which amounts to much the same thing. You’ll have to pay national park entry fees for the Annapurna, Everest, and Langtang areas. A handful of remote regions are still restricted and require permits to enter.

It’s worth noting, too, that a few sites in the Kathmandu Valley, including the entire city of Bhaktapur, charge entry fees.

Customs officers are fairly lax on entry, but checks are more thorough on departure, and it is illegal to export objects over 100 years old (see Ethical shopping).

 

 

Travel Essentials: Nepal (Part I)

Traveling to Nepal can be a rewarding experience if you know the right things to do. Nepal is a traveler’s paradise, combining golden temples, majestic mountain views, luscious green forests, charming lakes, and rich wildlife.

Like we said, it can be quite a hassle if you do not know the basic travel essentials in Nepal. There are many things to consider: the underdeveloped roads in most parts of the country, relevant unhygienic situations, the food that you may or may not eat in Nepal.

So, let’s cover the most important factors when traveling to Nepal — taking care of your children, the climate, and the cost of staying in Nepal.

 

Children

Kids always help break the ice with strangers, and Nepal can be a magical place for a child to visit. Arranging childcare is easy, and Nepalis generally love kids. However, some children (especially those with fair skin and blond hair) may be uncomfortable with the endless attention.

Parents will, of course, have to take extra precautions in the light of Nepal’s poor sanitation, street dogs, large crowds, heavy traffic, pollution, bright sun, rooftops, and steep slopes.

It may be hard to keep hands clean and gross stuff out of mouths, and you’ll have to keep a firm grip on small children while out and about. If your child comes down with diarrhea, keep them hydrated and topped up on salts – have oral rehydration formula at hands.

Naturally, you’ll want to plan the modest itinerary and travel in greater comfort with children than you might on your own. In tourist areas, it should be no problem finding food that kids will love to eat. Although, in other places, it might be more challenging. Baby food and disposable nappies/diapers are available in Kathmandu and Pokhara but are hard to come by elsewhere, especially in rural areas. Some toys and books can be bought in Nepal, but it’s better if you bring a supply of your own. Carry toddlers in a backpack or papoose – a stroller or pushchair will be virtually useless in Nepal.

Trekking with children is generally a wonderful experience, though it can be logistically awkward if they’re too old to ride in a backpack and too young to hike on their own (though mules or horses can often be arranged).

 

Climate

Nepal’s climate varies significantly through the year, with seasons showing themselves up very differently at different altitudes. The pre-monsoon period, generally very hot and humid at lower elevations, lasts from mid-April to early June. The monsoon season itself dominates the period between mid-June and mid-September when travel is difficult but not impossible. Autumn sees pleasant temperatures and dry weather, while winter is generally cool and clear.

 

Costs

Your money goes a long way in Nepal. Off the tourist routes, it can actually be hard to spend $30–40 a day, including food, transport, and accommodation. On the other hand, Kathmandu and some of the other tourist traps can burn a hole in your pocket faster than you might expect. Even so, it’s still possible for a frugal traveler to keep to $20 a day in the capital, although the figure can effortlessly balloon to $50 or more simply by choosing slightly nicer hotels and restaurants. If you like to travel in greater luxury, you should reckon on spending $60–80 or more per day, mainly depending on the standard of accommodation.

You’ll inevitably pay over the odds for things at first, and it may even feel as if people are charging you as much as they think they can get away with, but that’s hardly a market principle exclusive to Nepal. Bargain where appropriate, but don’t begrudge a few rupees to someone who has worked hard for them.

Many hotels (and most tourist restaurants) quote their prices exclusive of the 13 percent “government” tax (essentially a value-added tax) and charge another 10 percent service charge.

No matter how tight your budget, it would be foolish not to splurge now and then on some of the things that make Nepal unique: organized treks, rafting, biking and wildlife trips are relatively expensive but well worth it.